By easy chair is understood here a spring-seated chair, and the details given below apply equally well to a spring-seated sofa or settee. The chair should be turned over so that the under part of the seat is uppermost, and the seat proper should be so arranged that it rests upon the seat of another chair. The covering cloth which is tacked down should have the tacks carefully removed, and the cloth, drawn back or taken off. The damaged webbing will now be exposed, and it should be noted how the different pieces pass over or under each other, how the springs are secured to them, the position of the springs, and also how the webbing is secured to the frame of the chair. It should also be noted whether the lower ends of the spring (in the present position) are tied to the material under them ; they ought to be so secured. Webbing of the best quality that can be afforded should be obtained, also a packing needle and a supply of strong twine, together with some strong large 5/8in tacks, sometimes called webbing tacks. A light hammer will also be wanted, and a tack lifter or other means to get out the old tacks, also a piece of wood, say 1in. thick, 4in. wide by 3in. long.

Having carefully observed the method by which the webbing now on passes each other, generally alternately over and under, draw out the tacks holding down the ends of the damaged webbing, and do what cutting is required to draw out all the damaged pieces.

It will be necessary to cut the twine generally holding the webbing to the spring ends, this will not matter, as new twine must be used later. Depending upon how much of the webbing is broken will depend how the springs stand up out of their correct position. This does not matter, it is easy to get the springs back into their proper place, by a trick at the right time, and without exertion, so cut away all the damaged webbing at once, and separate it from the springs, which however are left still attached to the seat material, and in their correct places on this material. Now take one end of the new webbing, tack it down to the chair frame in the same manner that the old webbing had been done, pass the webbing across the seat over and under the other pieces as required and through the springs that are extended to their full length. Wrap the loose end round the piece of wood mentioned above and strain it against the side of the chair frame to tighten it see Fig. 220, tack it down as before and cut off the surplus, do this with all other replace pieces. The chair bottom should now show the webbing in place all tight and fastened down, but with the springs standing out beyond the webbing, see Fig. 220.

Fig. 220.

Now work each spring down through the webbing into its proper position, taking care that finally each stands vertically. This working into position is easily done by swaying with a circular motion and pressing downwards at the same time. With the twine and packing needle sew each spring end to the webbing that passes over it, do this at three points to each spring at equal distances round the spring end ; it is much the better practice to tie the twine at each place, easily done with the needle still in position. Everything should now be right and in position and the cover can now be tacked on again. If the springs are handled as described above, the operation of re-webbing is quite easy and no struggling is required. English web of the black and white diagonal pattern is sold in lengths of 18yds. but can be bought in some shops by the length required at 3 to 41/2 pence per yard, depending upon the width. Its strength is denoted by numbers, 10, 12 and 14 are most in demand. The stitching twine is sometimes termed " Spring" twine, but any good strong twine will do. It is upon the good quality of the webbing, and the proper tacking down that the final results really depend.