The gouge is supplied in two sizes, narrow and wide. This is probably the most useful of all the tools, for nearly all the work is roughed down to approximate shape most rapidly with these.

To become really dexterous with the gouge takes quite a little time and patience; some people get the knack much more quickly than others. Fig. 106 shows how this tool is to be held for roughing down work. The point is worked along in a series of backward sweeps, pivoting on a centre under the thumb. When working out, curves the gouge must be set on its side, with the fluted part away from the cut. All the cutting is done by the point, and the curved back must be kept firmly pressed against the work. As one works toward the bottom of a hollow curve the gouge will be gradually turned on its back so that at the extreme bottom of the curve the tool will rest square on its back, as shown in Fig. 106. The point of the roughing gouge is much more rounded. For facing and for curves the point requires to be more tapered off. Care must be taken to avoid any bump on the back of the tapered gouges when sharpening. Otherwise the tool will be inclined to rock, for the flat back forms a support against the work when cutting, therefore the insides of the flutes have to be honed with tapered or round slip stones.

For soft woods the cutting angle of the tools has to be very acute, round about 30 degrees and the tools are presented at a tangent to the work. The harder the wood is the less acute must the angle be, perhaps 60 degrees, according to the hardness. For the wood then approaches the nature of metal where the tool is presented radially to the work, i.e., a line drawn along the top of the tool if projected would run through the centre of the work. Very sharp tools are required for soft woods, which are more difficult to turn than hard woods. The flat wood chisels are made in two widths. These take off the ridges left by the gouge and bring the work up smooth and finished. The angle at which it is held is not quite so great as that of the roughing gouge, and the hand-rest is set closer to the work. The top of the tool must be stoned nice and flat. If the tool is held horizontally it will only tear and scrape and not cut at all. This must be avoided. It must be held at the correct angle, the edge just above the centre. It should take a clean cut the whole length of the work. The same tools are used for boring out recesses in boxes, shallow cups, and so forth. Parallel work is also done with these tools by holding them at an angle to the work so as to keep the cut in the centre of the cutting edge, the lower face pressing against the work. The wide chisel is the most used, but the narrow one is essential for small steps and ridges.

The angle chisel is used for facing the end of work and for forming balls and outside curves. It is held with the point below in line with the centre. The flat of the bevel must be kept pressed against the side of the work.

The shaving must be taken off by the middle of the cutting edge. This means that while the point of the chisel when starting the cut is at the centre height, as the tool is advanced this point must be slightly lowered. In turning balls one always tries at first to take too thick a shaving, so one will do well to mark a groove on the work where one should start the cut. This with the point of the chisel laid flat. It will be found much easier to start the shaving in this way.

Parallel work is also done with this tool in the same way at an angle as in the case of the flat chisels. They must be kept very keen, and be honed flat with the bevel face on either side.

The parting tool is quite easy to use, for it is pushed straight into the centre. Care must be taken that the parallel side of this tool rests on the steel tee, which should be at the correct height to bring the point of the tool in line with the centre of the work.

These six tools are really the minimum number one must have for wood turning. One really ought to have a few extra spare ones, for one cannot keep stopping one's work just to hone up one tool. It is not possible to illustrate all the positions these tools take up in actual work, so only the simplest position has been given. The reader will please note that the second joint of the right hand index finger guides the tool along by pressure on the side of the tee. The tools do not require to be gripped tightly. After a little practice one can hold them with the finger and thumb. The actual shock when cutting off corners and knobs should be taken up entirely by the tee rest and not by the hand.

In addition to the turning tools mentioned above, there are six standard hollow and round bead turning tools that are equally useful; the cutting edges of all these tools must be kept very sharp and smooth, if the best results are desired.

Chucks and Chucking as an expression means indifferently the holding of the work as well as the holding of the tools in the head-stock or tailstock spindle.