This is made with the hat compartment door opening on the left.

Requirements

Body. 2 Washing-powder Boxes (8 3/4 in. deep, 15 3/4 in. wide. 30 in. long). 1 Long Packing-box (15 3/4 in. deep, 30 in. wide, 6 ft. long).

Legs. 4 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/4 in. wide, by twice the outside depth of the small boxes and the outside length of the packing-box combined. 4 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 1 3/4 in. wide, by twice the outside depth of the small boxes and the outside length of the packing-box combined.

Cleats. 2 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. shorter than the width of the door.

Hardware. 2 porcelain pull-knobs. 2 4 in. tee hinges. 4 1 1/2 in. butts and screws. 3 screws 1 in. long, to screw on buttons. 3 wooden buttons, for fastening doors.

False Top. 1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 3 in. wider than the outside width and 3 in. longer than the outside length of the small boxes.

Construction

Make the length of the legs twice the outside depth of the small boxes and the outside length of the packing-box combined.

Take one end out of one, and one side out of the other small box, and put the covers back on the boxes. Set one box flat on the floor, and stand the packing-box on end on top of it. If the packing-box is not the right size, it will have to be taken apart and its boards cut to the proper dimensions. When it is the same size in width and depth as the small box, nail the two boxes together, the openings on the same side, and clinch the nails. These two boxes make the compartments for clothes and for shoes.

Put the other small box on the floor. Set the packing-box, upside down, on top of it, having the opening of the small box at right angles with the opening of the packing-box. Nail the boxes together evenly, and turn the wardrobe right side up. The second small box makes the hat compartment. Nail the false top over the top of the hat compartment. It should project l 1/2 inches beyond each edge.

Nail the legs to the corners of the wardrobe. Their tops should reach to the false top, and they should extend 4 inches below the bottom. Be sure the legs are even, then stand the wardrobe upright on them.

Make the wardrobe door. Let it fit easily between the legs and extend from the bottom of the hat compartment down to the bottom of the shoe compartment. Nail the cleats on the door 8 inches from each end. Place the tee hinges 1 foot from each end and hang the door. Screw the knob in the middle, 2 inches from the outer edge. Screw the buttons on the legs 1 foot from each end of the door.

The side removed from the small box cut shorter will make a door for the hat compartment. Hang it from the top, as shown in Illustration 85, and put on a knob and button.

The clothes-hanger support inside the wardrobe is made of a broom handle 1/2 inch shorter than the width of the clothes compartment. Make two blocks, 3 inches square and 3/4 inch thick. Bore a hole the size of the broom handle through the middle of each block. Slip the broom handle through the blocks, and nail the blocks to the sides of the wardrobe 2 inches from the top. Many clothes-hangers may be hung upon this rod. The above description is for a man's wardrobe. The only difference, however, between that and the woman's wardrobe is in the height of the shoe compartment, which is 15 inches high instead of 81/4 inches. The increased height is obtained by removing the cover also from the lower small box and moving the lower end of the packing-box in about 6 1/4 inches.