Remainder - A little fat with salts.

In some fish, where the fat is large in quantity (herring, mackerel, salmon, etc.), the water is correspondingly diminished.

It should be stated that this estimate has been based solely on the leading and most important facts afforded by a chemical analysis, without reference to other considerations of minor importance referred to below.*

* It is well known that there are some restorative qualities contained in animal flesh, which, although not at present fully appreciated by chemical analysis, have a value of no mean order, demonstrated chiefly by empirical observation. The invigorating effect of a small quantity of beef-tea, in a person suffering from inanition, may be cited in illustration ; the solid matter resulting from its evaporation being insignificant in quantity when compared with the support afforded. Now, the product obtained by dealing with fish, in the same manner as we treat beef in order to obtain "beef-tea," is greatly inferior replace a portion of this latter in the animal economy, while the "extractives" are less valuable than the extractives of meat. As a rule, fat is almost absent; in certain varieties it is abundant. Fish is an aliment well adapted for persons whose physical labour is not considerable; but the deficient elements can be easily supplied from other sources, as we shall see hereafter. The popular estimate of the value of fish as an article of nutritious diet rates it, I think, below its value; and it deserves to be more largely consumed than it is. At the same time it must be admitted that the high price which the finest sorts obtain make them costly forms of food, so that they must, by a large proportion of the community, be regarded as articles of luxury for occasional and not for frequent use.

We may now arrive at an approximative estimate of the place which fish occupies as nutrient material among the other products which the animal kingdom offer to men. Fish is inferior to flesh, not in the quality, but in the quantity of certain constituents, viz. the proteids, or flesh-formers, of which it contains fully a third less than ordinary meat. It contains more gelatine, which, although a nitrogenous product, is much inferior to "albumen," and can only partially in this restorative quality, although the solids present are larger in quantity in "fish-tea" than in that of meat, being chiefly gelatine.

I have had the following experiments performed in the most accurate manner, which will show in part the nature of the chemical difference: One pound of rump-steak, one pound of turbot, each without skin and bone, the former freed from fat, were thus separately treated. The flesh was passed twice through a mincing - machine, and sufficient cold water to cover (one pint) was added. After standing one hour, the mass was heated to boiling point, and allowed to simmer ten minutes, then strained through calico, and the contents of the strainer washed with water: a little floating fat was removed (in the case of the beef). Each of the liquids was evaporated on a water bath to the consistence of a soft extract.

Beef-product.

Weight of extract, 276 grains or 3.94 per cent. Of this product, 5 per cent, was gelatine.

Fish-product.

Weight of extract, 396 grains or 5.6 per cent. Of this product the gelatine amounted to 21.8 per cent.

Value of fish as compared with that of meat.

I may further remark that the list of fish in general demand by the public is a restricted one. The force of habit, together with the entire absence of interest or curiosity on the part of our countrymen in relation to diet, has led to a conventional usage, limiting greatly and disadvantageously the variety of fish which would otherwise arrive at the market. Sole, whiting, haddock, herring, mackerel, cod, salmon, turbot, brill, trout, smelt, and red mullet, form a group to which a large proportion of British households in purchasing fresh fish as a rule strictly limit their orders. Again, at almost every hotel, coffee Excellent food for many.

Few varieties used as food;

Qualities of Fish Compared. 185 room, or public restaurant here, and whatever the hour of day, it is rare indeed if the waiter summoned to an applicant demanding fish does not first suggest the inevitable fried sole, whatever else he may have to offer; and it is generally accepted as probably the safest order to give, and the most likely to be promptly executed No desire for variety in material or in cookery is manifested, for if the host suggested something less familiarly known, a troublesome doubt as to his motive would probably be aroused in the mind of the guest.

Relative to the list of fish just given, it may be remarked that the whiting, the smelt, and the sole are the most delicate in flavour, and the easiest of digestion; fitting them admirably to the invalid commencing after illness to make a trial of solid food; the two former being little less nutritious than the sole, which is, moreover, susceptible of very varied treatment in high-class cooking for the production of elegant entries. The turbot, rightly esteemed, is stronger food, and agrees well with most persons. The cod, for some, is not quite so readily taken; and is not only more palatable, but is sometimes more easily assimilated when "crimped." The same may be said of the salmon, a leading characteristic of which is the presence of fat. This element in fish is more, apt to disagree with the stomach than fat from some other sources; and on this account it is that many either avoid, or eat sparingly of salmon.

Due to habit.

The easiest of digestion and most delicate; the most substantial.

As the fat is chiefly found in the underside of the fish, a slice from the back only should be taken by such persons; but it may be taken as generally true that in the freshly killed fish the fat is more wholesome than on the second or third day after leaving the water, when it becomes oily and acquires a slight characteristic taste and odour.