Although very bad for chops or steaks, the frying-pan is indispensable for some things, such as veal cutlets, lamb chops (sometimes), fish, pancakes, etc. Most meats and fish are usually fried with egg and bread crumbs. The frying-pan must be kept clean. This is very essential, as the dirt that sticks to the pan absorbs the fat, prevents the meat browning and turns it black. Have a clear, brisk fire, for the quicker meat is fried the tenderer it is. According to what is to be fried, put little or much fat in the pan; fish and pancakes require a considerable quantity. The fat must always boil before putting the meat into it; if not, it coddles. For veal cutlets a little butter is best and most economical, as it helps to make the gravy. Some cooks have a few slices of bacon with cutlets or liver; the fat from this, if the bacon be not rank, will do very nicely; and if the meat be well flavored and fried quickly, and some nice gravy made to it, few persons would know the difference. Some like thickened and some plain gravy to these fried meats; some a large quantity, others very little; all these must be accommodated. To make these gravies, have ready a little burnt sugar to brown with; empty the pan of the fat, if it be, as is most likely, too rank to use; put warm water in the pan; mix very smoothly sufficient flour and water to thicken it to taste; into this put as much butter as yon like to use (a little will do, more will make it richer); pepper and salt it sufficiently; stir it very smoothly into the pan while the water is only warm; stir it well until it boils, and brown it with the burnt sugar to your taste. Care must be taken, after the gravy boils, not to let it boil fast for any length of time, as all thickened gravies, hashes, etc., boil away very fast and dry up; neither must it stand still in the pan; a whitish scum then settles on the top and spoils the appearance of it.

N. B.-For all frying purposes be particular that the pan is thoroughly hot before using.