This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
No. 807. - This is a very fine heading variety, of large size, and stands the sun better than any other sort. The heads are large, solid, sweet, tender, and crisp throughout, and are devoid of any bitter taste.
No. 808. - This plant is small, having very thick and smooth dark green leaves, which are crisp and tender.
No. 809. - An early variety of very strong growth, which does not form a head, but is the best kind for cutting and bunching when young. The leaves are large and wrinkled and of a light yellow color. It resembles the Cos varieties in quality.
No. 810. - A dark green curled variety with close round heads, which when opened are finely blanched and very crisp. It remains in head a long time.
No. 811. - The head is remarkably large and compact, though somewhat flattened. It is crisp and tender and one of the finest summer varieties. Its color is pale green without and white in the center.
No. 812. - This is a very early variety, desirable for forcing and for early planting, out of doors, but it does not stand the sun well. It is medium in size, having a compact head, the leaves being smooth and thick and of a bluish-green color.
No. 813. - This is an old and hardy variety, and always forms a large, solid head, which is somewhat coarse looking. The leaves are large and thick, of a deep green color outside, but beautifully blanched within. They are exceedingly sweet, tender, and of good flavor.
No. 814. - An ornamental variety of exceeding beauty, but inferior in quality. The inside of the leaves is white, the edges a light green, delicately fringed and crimped. Its handsome appearance makes it well worthy of cultivation for table decoration alone.
No. 815. - This is a large hardy variety, which takes long in running to seed, and is considered by many to be far better than the other varieties. The heads are long and upright, with oblong leaves, that are tender, brittle, and highly flavored.
No. 816. - This is the best variety for summer use, forming large, compact heads. It is light green in color outside, and white inside. Its great advantage is that it will stand drought and heat, and will remain longer in heads than the other varieties.
No. 817. - Select one dozen solid heads of Lettuce and trim off the outer leaves. Wash the Lettuce in plenty of cold water and then drain them. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water. After this press each head in the hand well, arrange them on a napkin and trim them. Next line a deep flat saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, on which you will put the heads of Lettuce side by side. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and two onions having three cloves stuck in each. Cover each head of Lettuce with slices of fat pork and moisten them with stock broth. Cover the saucepan and let this boil once and then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until done. Then drain them on a sieve and sponge off the grease with a napkin. Then put them in a saucepan with three spoonfuls of half glaze, and set them in the oven. When glazed serve them with a reduced Espagnole sauce.
 
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