This section is from the book "The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper", by Elizabeth Fries Ellet. Also available from Amazon: The New Cyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, and Practical Housekeeper.
Take a calf's head very white and very fresh, bone the nose part of it; put the head into some warm water to discharge the blood; squeeze the flesh with your hand, to ascertain that it is all out. Mind, the water should never be too hot for you to bear your hand in it; as long as you can bear it the blood will come out, but if you suffer it to be too hot it will turn the head black. This method of disgorging the blood is to give the same heat to the blood as when the animal was alive, and if your hand will bear the heat it shows that the blood may circulate in the veins, but if the water be too hot the blood will curdle, as it does in black pudding. When well disgorged, blanch the head in boiling water; when firm, put it into cold water, and make a blanc to boil the head, as follows:- Cut half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an onion stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon; add to these slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, salt and pepper; put all these into a vessel, with water enough to contain the head; tie the head tightly in a clean towel, put it in the blanc, and boil two hours and a half; observe that it be not overdone; let it cool in the liquor, then make the sauce in the following manner:-
Put into a stewpan a pound of ham cut in slices, put over the ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two carrots; moisten with some of the broth in which you have boiled the head, to half the depth of the meat only: cover the stewpan, and put it over the fire to sweat through; let the broth reduce to a very good color, turn up the meat for fear of burning. When you have a very good color, and you find that the glaze is very brown, moisten with the whole of the broth from the head, season with a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz., sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few allspice, parsley, green onions, and a few mushrooms; let this boil together for one hour, then drain it.
Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired a very good brown color; moisten this gradually with the broth, which you put through a silk sieve, till you have employed it all; add half a bottle of Madeira; let the sauce boil, that the flour may be well done; take off all the scum and fat, and drain the sauce into a clean stewpan large enough to contain the calf s head: boil the whole till done, cut the calf's head into square pieces of about an inch each; put them to boil in the sauce; season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. The bits of calf s head should always have the skin on one side, but you should leave none of the meat on, which does not adhere to the skin, otherwise the meat will break in the soup, and look unseemly. It is out of fashion now to use eggs; but on this head the taste of the master should be consulted, and you may make quenelles instead.
Observe, that you must not have the quenelles too delicate, for they would break in the soup and spoil the look of it; the calf's head must not be too much done; thrust your knife into the skin, and' if the knife enters and detaches itself easily, the meat is done enough.
Some persons will have their mock turtle green; in which case you must do as follows: Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one or two onions, add a handful of each of the herbs described above, and some parsley, and sweat it all gently over a slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with some of the sauce, and rub it through a tammy. Mix this with the sauce, and the turtle will be green, without any alteration in the flavor. Cayenne and lemon are always added when you serve up the soup.
 
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