This section is from the book "Beverages And Their Adulteration Origin, Composition, Manufacture, Natural, Artificial, Fermented, Distilled, Alkaloidal And Fruit Juices", by Harvey W. Wiley. Also available from Amazon: Beverages And Their Adulteration.
An early method of making wine in America is as follows:1
The method I have found best for making wine from grapes, is to let them hang on the vines until fully ripe, then to gather them, when dry, throw away rotten ones if any, open the cider mill so as not to mash the stems or seeds, put the pumice (or mashed grapes) on some clean, long straw, laid on the cider press floor, lap it in the straw, press it well, then take off the pumice, add some water, and after it has soaked a while, press as before; the latter will make as good wine by adding sugar as is commonly done in the country, but I prefer making it of the juice without water.
The last autumn I tried several ways of making wine: one cask of 34 gallons that first run from the press, I set to ferment in its then state, expecting to make that without sugar; another of the same size had 17 pounds white Havanna sugar added, the remainder was mixed with the second pressing, and had the same proportion of sugar; the first ceased fermenting in half the time of the others; when the fermentation subsided, I drew them off (one cask at a time) into a tub and rinsed the cask with water and fine gravel, then put in about one-eighth of the quantity, of French brandy (good apple brandy, will make the wine as good, but not so like foreign wine), and having burnt a sulphur match (about half as much as would kill a hive of bees), after the match was burnt out I stopt the bung again, shook it to incorporate the liquor with the smoke, and finally filled the cask.
The first cask when racked, I found too tart, I believe owing to the wet summer, on which account I added sugar as above, and the like proportion of brandy; in about a month I racked all again, and found this last-mentioned cask far better and clearer than the others, from which I conclude it is better to let grape wine first ferment, and when racked, to add sugar to the palate, by which means wine may be made palatable from sweet or sour grapes.
Taking into consideration with what ease and expedition grape vines may be propagated; the great expense and uncertainty of being supplied from foreign countries, and the base and dangerous practice of adulteration by many of the venders of wine, I am induced to urge the propagation of grape vines in preference to other fruit, especially in such places as shades are wanted, as they may be trained in such manner as fancy or convenience may direct, and more speedily than any durable fruit-bearing tree; and if properly trimmed and trained, will exceed the same kind of vines which grow on trees, in production of fruit in quantity, size and flavor, beyond most people's imagination.
1 Philadelphia Society for Promoting Agriculture, February 22, 1808, read by Mr. Joseph Cooper, of Coopers' Point, on March 8, 1808.
 
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