CARL H. CLARK

The hull of the boat haying been completed in proper manner for use as a sailing boat, it has been thought best, in view of the great increase in power boating, to describe the slight additional labor of fitting an engine of about H or 2 h. p. for auxiliary service. The advantages of a practical combination of the power and sail boats are too well known to need any explanation. The only difference in the boat when so fitted is the addition of the engine beds inside, and the aperature in the skeg to admit of the wheel, as shown in Fig. 1. The top of the cylinder will project above the floor and can be fitted with a removable box to protect it when not in use, and which serves as a seat when in place. It is suggested that those intending to fit power, place the centreboard box about one foot further forward to give rather more room for the engine. The box is now in the proper place for use with sails alone, but placing it a foot further forward will not affect her sailing, and the change in the slot should be made when the keel is sawed. This is only to give additional room, as the engine can be put in with the box in its present position.

The engine should be placed as near the centre board box as possible and allow easy access to the starting handle. The centreboard logs are cut out to admit the fly wheel, which should clear on the lower side by about an inch.

The 6keg is cut, as in Fig. 17, to give room for the propeller. The shaft hole is bored in the right place and with the proper slant. The beds inside are about 2" thick, fitted the proper distance apart to fit the flanges on the engine bed. Some engines require cross beds, like deep, heavy floors, which are easily fitted and fastened to the keel and plank.

A fore and aft bed is to be preferred and is shaped somewhat as in Fig. 1. The bed pieces are notched over the frames and fastened through the plank, and should run well forward. In either case the beds should have a cross brace between them to keep them upright.

Care must be used to prevent the ingress of water at the joint between the skeg and the keel. A stop water, or pine plug, should be driven in the joint about 3" on either side of the hole, and the joint between them carefully calked. The foot of the rudder, also, must be supported by the iron skeg, which is now made longer for this purpose.

The installation of the engine is described in the chapter on the power dory. The exhaust pipe should be led down alongside the engine and then under the floor to the muffler, which is placed either in the stern or inside one of the seats, as is most convenient. The outlet from the muffler is then carried out through the stern. The gasolene tank may be placed where-ever is most convenient, one of about ten gallons being of sufficient capacity. The stern stuffing box, or gland, is fastened on the after side of the skeg with lug screws and must be nicely fitted not to cramp or bend the shaft when set up. The general directions for piping, as given for the power dory, apply equally well to this installation. The position of the wheel in relation to the starting handle, or some other point, should be determined, that the wheel may be placad vertically behind the skeg when under sail.

The sail plan is shown in Fig. 2; that of the jib and mainsail type, as it is the handiest for general use and the most popular rig for small boats. A yawl rig could easily be substituted if the boat is to be used for cruising. The spars are of spruce of the lengths shown in Fig. 2. The mast is 21' long, 4" in diameter at the deck, tapering to 3 1/2" at the gaff and 3" at the top. It may be gotten out of a square stick of timber or from a small tree, such as are sold for the purpose. If worked out of a square stick it should first be tapered correctly, the corners then taken off, making it octagon, and finally rounding it off smoothly and finishing with sandpaper.

There are three eyes at the top of the mast, the upper as near the top as possible; the next about 8" below the upper, and the lower about 2' below the second; they are riveted through over a washer.

The boom is 19' 8" long, 3" in diameter at the middle, 2 1/2" at the inner and 2" at the outer end. The inner end is fitted with a band, tightly driven on to prevent it splitting when the end of the gooseneck is driven in. The gaff is 12' 6" long, of oval section about 3 1/2" by 1 1/2", tapering towards the outer end. The inner end is fitted with jaws which fit the mast. The latter are of oak and may be cut out, or better, may be bought, all bent to shape, at stores dealing in yacht supplies. They are riveted on to the sides of the gaff. There is also an eye in this end for the throat halliard.

The bowsprit is 4' outboard, and about 6 1/2', total length. It is 1 1/2" thick and 5" wide at the stem and tapers toward each end. There is a mortise in it to fit over the top of the stem, and two eyes in the outer end one above and one below; these latter must be very strong, as there is much strain upon them. There are two 1/2" bolts in the inboard end, fastened with nuts below. To take the lower end of the bobstay a strong eye is fastened to the stem by bolting through. The spars should be smoothly sandpapered and finished with a coat of white shellac and two coats of good spar varnish.

A pair of chain plates are bolted to the hull about 12" back from the mast, to hold the side stays; the bolts, if possible, passing through a frame.

The standing rigging is of 1/4" galvanized steel wire. In each of the three stays an eye should be spliced which will just fit the top of the mast and rest upon the middle one of the three eyes, a small oak chock piece should also be screwed to the mast opposite the eye, to prevent their slipping down. At the lower end of each a thimble is spliced, the stays being left of the correct length that the forestry can be fastened to the eye in the top of the bowsprit with a shackle, and the two side stays into turn buckles, the lower end of which are shackled into the chain plates. This allows the rigging to be set up taut. The bobstay is a piece of 3/8" galvanized wire rope, fitted with thimbles and turnbuckles to take up the slack.